Newbury Weekly News - 13 May 2004
Royal Berkshire Life
- May 2004
The Moodie Cook
- BBC Berkshire June 2004
THE Square Bar & Grill in Weavers Walk, Newbury, may be best known for its monthly speed dating evenings, but it is also a
contemporary restaurant, with a modern, international menu. NWN2 reviewer CATRIONA REEVES went on a hot date with her
husband and toddler son.
TAKING along our 19-month-old son George to The Square wasn?t part of an elaborate
plan to test its staff to the max ? but the
restaurant?s website says that ?children are
always welcome?, and when I asked if that
included evenings when booking, not an eyelid
was batted.
During our entire visit, the staff remained calm,
friendly and professional in the face of the mess,
noise and mayhem that issued from our table ?
and that was just down to my husband Bill, and
me.
So a friendly welcome for children of all ages
guaranteed, complete with children?s menu, changing facilities and after-meal lollipops ? but
this is not just a family restaurant by any means.
The Square is run by couple Suzanne and
Marwan, who were formerly in hotel management
in London, and opened The Square with the
aim of putting it ?on the dining map in the
Berkshire region?, by offering ?quality food and
professional service in a warm and friendly
atmosphere, with great value for money?.
The response from customers since they opened
has been fantastic: ?We are continuously excited
by customers telling us ?this is exactly what
Newbury has been missing? and that ?we have
brought a certain style to Newbury?.?
The food could not be faulted ? it?s not cheap, but
you truly feel that you are getting great value for
money, as each mouthful is a taste sensation,
bursting with flavour and texture. Head chef Marc
Slater believes that a carrot should taste like a
carrot, and he has succeeded. In each dish we
tried, the base ingredients? flavours were
enhanced, not hidden by the seasoning. This was
not just eating, this was a food experience to
remember.
Even my vegetable panach?of green beans,
mange tout and courgettes was a revelation ?
neither too soft or too crunchy, but cooked al dente
to perfection. And don?t even get me started on the
gorgeous roast chicken or beautiful apple cheesecake...
As for Bill?s choices, who thought that
chicken consomm?could be that zingy? Or homemade
baked beans (as our waitress described the
cassoulet) out of this world? George was more
than happy with his scrambled egg on toast
(smothered in the best quality ketchup, of course),
and even kindly let me taste a little of his strawberry,
chocolate and vanilla ice-cream, served in a
brandy snap basket ? purely for reviewing reasons,
of course.
To be honest, the price of the ?la carte evening
menu was a slight shock; we went along having
checked out the lower-priced set menus on the
restaurant?s website, only to discover that they
were now only available at weekends, having
proved less popular mid-week.
But the cost is not incomparable to a lot of restaurants,
and even pubs, in West Berkshire these
days, and you do get the whole dining experience,
complete with salmon amuse-bouch?to begin, and
a pink grapefruit sorbet ? with a surprising bourbon
kick ? before the main course.
The service was great, attentive without being
overbearing, and the surroundings were smart
without being so posh that we felt uncomfortable.
We?ll definitely be returning, but next time without
George ? The Square deserves our undivided
attention.
| MENU |
Starters
Chicken consomm?scented with lime leaf? ?3.95
Main course
Whole roasted poussin with lemon, garlic and thyme butter,
served with sage risotto and vegetable panach?? ?11.50
Slow cooked belly of pork with cassoulet and garlic
mashed potato ? ?9.95
Children?s scrambled egg on toast ? ?2.25
Desserts
Apple cheesecake with apple and Calvados sorbet ? ?4.25
Children's selection of home-made ice cream ? ?2.75
Drinks
Large glass of Hippo Creek 2002/3 Chenin Blanc ? ?4.50
Large glass of Pinot Grigio Corte Vigna 2003/4 ? ?4.50
Liqueur coffee with Jack Daniels ? ?3.95
Total ? ?47.60 |
'A former chef from The Waterside Inn and Cliveden is now
working his magic in Newbury. Tessa Harris tracked him down - just off the
High Street.'
(click to open review in
new window - 165kb)
Tucked away in a quiet courtyard in the heart of Newbury's shopping district, the Square Bar and Grill has an enviable location.
Seconds from the main drag of Northbrook Street, it's a great stop off for lunch, drinks or dinner. Children are also made welcome with the addition of a varied menu.
Fully refurbished a year ago, the restaurant and bar are decorated in a contemporary style. Clean lines, wooden floors and polished chrome combine for a striking finish.
Proprietors Suzanne and Marwan describe the menu as Modern International allowing room for development in any direction.
In line with the elegance of the restaurant's interior, the food is beautifully prepared and presented. I must admit the combination of flavours in my main of Sea Bream didn't bond well.
But on the flip-side, my companion for the evening enjoyed hers from start to finish. The Beef fillet with grilled asparagus, Dauphinoise potato and red wine jus was particularly good.
With the Corn Exchange and Watermill Theatre five minutes walk in either direction, it's only natural the restaurant should provide a pre-theatre menu.
However, for ?24.95 there's a twist in the plot. Arrive at 6pm to enjoy your Starters and Main Course, leaving plenty of time to take your seats.
After the last applause, return to The Square Bar and Grill for a home-made dessert and glass of champagne. What better way to savour the end of your evening?
Ladies Night also proves to be fantastic value for money with a 40% deduction from your food bill. Held every Tuesday, you'll be treated to a welcome cocktail as well as the usual winning service.
Sample Menu
* Asparagus, pea and mint risotto with a Parmesan biscuit
* Roasted Rack of Lamb with honey glazed shallots and panchetta, broad beans and potato fondant
* Apple cheesecake with apple and Calvados sorbet
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